Internal Preparation

Preparation of tools

Before installing the roof window, make sure that appropriate protective measures and tools have been prepared. It is very important to be able to start work.

Measuring up

It is possible that the attic roof trusses are covered with plasterboard or other cladding. In this case, it is very important to determine exactly where the window opening is to be made. By measuring the distance from the outer wall, you can accurately determine the position of the window relative to the outer surface.

Positioning

After determining the approximate position of the window, it should be marked accordingly.

Pilot hole

To be able to accurately measure, you need to cut a pilot hole.

Locating the rafters

By sliding the tape measure from either side of the pilot hole, you can locate and determine the position of the rafters.

Rafter edge

It is expedient to start work from the inside edge of the rafters to minimize unnecessary window borders.

Stripping out

When removing existing insulation, take appropriate precautions by wearing a protective mask and, if necessary, protective goggles.

Rafter removal

In the event that it is necessary to remove the rafter, it is important to consider what consequences this decision will have for the stability of the roof. If in doubt, it is advisable to consult a specialist before taking further steps.

Orientation

It's best to remove the cladding around to get a clear picture of the roof structure.

Lower Support

We need to make sure that the places where we intend to cut the rafter are properly supported...

Upper support

... and safely supported at the end of the rafters.

Cutting Rafters

Now we can mark the cutting places, cut and remove parts of the beam.

Cutting rafters (2)

Border

The window cut-out should be framed to the appropriate height and width ..

Don't forget...

to leave room for lining the frame at the right splayed angle.

Preparation

Making a hole

Measuring

Determine the contour of the hole on the inside of the roof foil (membranes). Do not cut more membrane than you need - you can always cut it later.

Membrane removal

Cut and remove the membrane, exposing battens and roofing

Tiled roof

If the roof is covered with tiles, then we carefully begin to remove them from the inside. To avoid accidents or injuries, make sure that everything is removed from the floor under the window opening.

Thin roofing (Slate or thin tiles)

For Slate roofs you will likely need to use a slate ripper

Nail removal

If the roof is covered with slate, you may need a slate ripper to remove the slate to remove the nails.

Removing tiles or slate

Remove enough tiles / slate to have a comfortable work area. Do not remove too many tiles / slate - you'll have to put them back later!

Remove battens

Remove battens to the edge of the framed window opening.

Remove battens (2)

Making a hole

Fixing the window frame

Fix a mounting batten

After determining the exact height of the window installation, it is advisable to temporarily fix a batten to support the frame at the right height.

Remove the sash from the frame

Before installing the door frame, we must remove the sash from it. To this end, we open the wing and rotate it 165 degrees.

Unlock the hinge

Press the hinge lock (click is heard). After unlocking the hinges, you can carefully remove the sash from the frame and place it vertically on the ground (the bottom of the sash should be on the ground).

Placement of mounting brackets

Fasten the mounting brackets 10 cm from the corners

Fix the frame

Carefully slide the door frame (with the brackets attached) through the opening. Place the frame on the mounting batten and lay it flat on the rafters.

Check frame position

If the window is horizontal, the bottom angles can be attached.

Final check of frame setting

Put the wing back in to be able to check that it opens and closes properly. If it is not functioning properly, it is better to demonstrate this at this stage and take the necessary steps.

FINAL CHECK OF FRAME SETTING (2)

Measure the diagonals from corner to corner to ensure that the frame is perpendicular. If the dimension AA is equal to BB, then the frame is perpendicular, then the upper angle brackets can be attached.

FINAL CHECK OF FRAME SETTING (3)

There should be an even gap around the sash frame

Check positioning

Check that the window is on battens and is positioned correctly relative to the rafters. If the rafters are uneven, the plastic wedge provided with the window can be placed under the angle.

Fasten mounting brackets

Fixing the window frame

Ensuring watertightness

Remove the sash

To continue installation, remove the sash from the frame once more. Don't forget to push the locking pin on each hinge. When releasing the hinges, support the sash from below, and then carefully put it aside in the attic.

Waterproof membrane

It is important to ensure that the roof window is waterproof against precipitation. For this purpose, we recommended to fix a waterproof membrane collar around the frame. 

Loosen the batten

Loosen the batten below the frame (or pull the nails out of it) to push the membrane layer underneath.

Attach Membrane

Starting from the bottom strip, slide the membrane under the laths and fasten / nail it to the bottom of the frame

Fix the membrane around the battens

When attaching the side strips of the membrane, check that it is well cut and tightly attached around the battens.

Attaching the upper diaphragm strap

It is important to slide the top of the collar under the existing roof membrane and attach it in this way. If there are counter battens on the roof, you may need to remove a small section of the batten to slide the cover into place.

Cutting the existing membrane

Cut the existing membrane above the batten to be able to slide the upper collar strip under it.

Insert the collar

Lift the cut part of the membrane and attach the upper flange strap underneath it and to the frame. Put the existing membrane back in place and fasten it.

Ensuring watertightness

Fixing flashings for slate/thin tile

Replacing slates

Place the slate back under the window and then at the side sections of the flashing on both sides of the frame, going from the bottom up

Fastening the bottom of the collar

Fasten the bottom of the flashing to the frame.

Fixing the bottom flashing

Lay and fasten the bottom covering

Replacing slate

And then at the side sections of the collar on both sides of the frame, going from the bottom up

Lay the side sections of the collar

Lay the side sections of the collar.
Repeat the procedure on the other side of the frame.
The distance should be in accordance with the recommended tolerance
(0-20mm).

Fastening side flashings

Lay and fasten side soakers.

Fastening the top flashing

Lay and fasten top covering

Fixing the head section

Fasten the head section to the top of the frame.

Installation check

It should fit snugly to the top of the frame

Replacing the roofing material

Place the slate back over the window, keeping the recommended tolerances (60-100mm).

Fixing the head section

Fasten the head section to the top of the frame.

Installation check

It should fit snugly to the top of the frame

Replacing the roofing material

Place the slate back over the window, keeping the recommended tolerances (60-100mm).

Replace the sash

Refit the sash, supporting it firmly before the hinge pins engage in the locking mechanism.

Job done!

Congratulations! Your roof window has been installed.

Fixing flashings for slate/thin tile

Fixing flashings for tiled roofs

Cutting roof tiles

Depending on the height of the tiles and the distance from the base of the window, it sometimes happens that we have to trim the tiles under the window to allow the corrugated apron to sit down properly.

Cutting the angles

Specify the place where the tiles are to be cut and cut off the edges using an angle grinder. Be sure to wear protection equipment and be careful.

Replace bottom row of tiles

Put the tiles back along the bottom row

Affix bottom flashing section

Fasten the lower flashing section to the base of the frame. 

Mould the apron

Manually press the apron to the tile profile and smooth it. If necessary, use a rubber mallet to shape the apron carefully.

Fastening side flashings

Lay and fasten side soakers.

 

Fix side flashings

Affix the side sections of the flashing.
Make sure the flashing side section lies on the bottom section.
Nail it to the side of the frame.

Fix side flashings (2)

Fasten the side parts of the flashing to the battens using the included mounting brackets.

Fix side coverings

Affix side cover parts.

Fixing the top cover parts

Fix top cover parts to upper part of frame

Fix head section

It should fit snugly to the top of the frame

Fix top cover

Screw top cover part onto the window

Replace side tiles

Relay the tiles to both sides of the window

Adjusting foam upstand

You may want to snip the foam upstand to ensure the tiles fit snugly

Maintain a level gap down the side of the window

It's usual to have to cut the roof tiles on one side of the frame so that they fit well. The gap should be kept within the recommended tolerances (30-60mm). Try to make them line up perfectly.

Replace the top tiles

Put the tiles back in the top row. It may turn out that we need to cut the tiles to make them fit exactly. The gap between the tiles and the frame should be kept within the recommended limits (60-150mm)..

Refit the sash frame

Refit the sash, supporting it firmly before the hinge pins engage in the locking mechanism.

Job done!

Congratulations! Your roof window has been installed.

Fixing flashings for tiled roofs